Should I turn off the water heater before the crew arrives?
Shut off the water supply to the heater at its valve if you can reach it safely. Turn the power or gas off only if you know how to do it without touching water, and leave the heater alone if you are not sure. The crew will check the connections on arrival.
A heater that is still heating with no water in the tank can be damaged. If the tank is leaking, the power or gas should be turned off by someone who knows the heater, and the line will tell you how to reach the shut-off.
Do not stand in water to reach a shut-off or a switch. If the floor is wet and the switch is at the heater, call the line and wait for the crew.
Is water from a water heater treated as clean?
Water from a water heater is usually supply water, which is handled with less restriction than sewage. It is still checked before it is handled, and the materials it reaches are judged on the basis of how long they stayed wet.
The source of the water is confirmed by the crew, because a heater can sit close to a drain or a sewer line that also leaks. If the water is not clean supply water, the crew changes its handling to match.
Materials that stayed wet for a short time often dry in place. Materials that sat in water for longer or that have wicked up water to a high level are removed where they cannot be dried reliably.
Who repairs or replaces the heater?
Repairing or replacing a water heater is plumbing work, and where the unit is gas or electric it may also be gas or electrical work. The restoration crew dries and documents the room. The heater is repaired or replaced by the trade that does that work.
The crew will tell you what it saw at the heater, such as a failed valve, a worn gasket or a corroded tank, so that the trade has the facts before it arrives. It does not replace or repair the heater itself.
Do not restart a heater that has leaked until a trade has checked it. Restarting a damaged tank can cause a second leak or a dangerous fault.
How do I stop a drip from spreading while I wait?
Move what you can away from the wet area, place towels or a bucket under a drip, and keep people and pets out of the water. Do not seal the leak with tape or sealant, because a trade has to find the cause before the connection is closed.
A drip under a tank can be caught in a shallow pan or a bucket, and the bucket emptied as it fills. Put dry towels down around the pan so that the water does not reach the cabinet or the wall.
Photograph the leak before anything is moved, and keep a note of when it started. That information is useful for the trade and for any insurer.
What does the scope and the price depend on?
The scope depends on how far the water reached, which materials are wet, and whether the heater's location lets the room dry properly. No figure is given over the phone, and the price is explained and approved on site before any equipment runs.
A leak confined to the floor under a tank is a small job. A leak that has run into a basement corner, into the wall and under a cabinet is a larger one. The crew explains which of these it is and what it will remove.
The repair of the heater is priced by the trade that does it, and the drying scope is priced by the scope on site. You approve each one separately.